The Prophecy
This chapter tells the origin story of the great chief Ka-mi-akin. It begins with his father, Ja-ya-yah-e-ha, a Nez Perce and Palouse warrior, who steals a prized sorrel horse and flees his own people. His journey leads him to the Pisch-wan-wap-pams (Yakimas) in the Kittitas valley, where he adopts the name Ki-yi-yah (Howling Wolf). There, he falls in love with Ka-e-mox-nith, the daughter of the chief, We-ow-wicht. The tribal medicine man, Wa-tum-nah, prophesies that these two will marry and have a son who will lead the Yakimas in their last great stand against the coming white men. After eloping, the couple settles among Ja-ya-yah-e-ha's people, where their first son, Ka-mi-akin, is born five years before the arrival of Lewis and Clark. Ten years later, Ka-e-mox-nith leaves her husband and returns with her three sons to her own people.
Κα-Μι-Ακin – The Great Chief
This chapter describes Ka-mi-akin's rise to prominence. He was a self-made leader, respected for his ability as an organizer and his desire for peace, though he was not of full royal lineage. After the Whitman massacre, he condemned the act and refused to join the Cay-uses in war. By 1840, a large portion of the Yakimas recognized him as their head man. Around this time, he traveled to Fort Vancouver and drove the first herd of cattle into the Yakima valley. A devout man, he requested Catholic priests for his tribe, leading to the founding of a mission on the upper Ah-tan-um in 1847 by Fathers E. C. Chirouse and Paschal Richard. Ka-mi-akin is compared to Governor Stevens, with both being strong and brilliant, but Ka-mi-akin's ambition was for his people, not for himself.
Mcclellan'S Expedition Through The Yakima Country In 1853
In 1853, Lieut. George B. McClellan's expedition through the Yakima country brought news of Governor Isaac Stevens' plan to make treaties and purchase Indian lands. This information, viewed as a threat, led Ka-mi-akin and other chiefs like Ow-hi to plan their resistance. Ka-mi-akin, declaring "I am for war," organized a council with chiefs Pe-peu-mox-mox and Looking Glass to form a confederacy of all tribes from British Columbia to Oregon. A grand council was held in the Grande Ronde valley in 1854, where nearly every tribe, except for those led by Lawyer, Stic-cas, and Garry, resolved to resist selling their lands. They decided to define their tribal boundaries to present a united front to Governor Stevens, leaving no lands available for sale.
The Council Of Walla Walla
The great council began on May 24, 1855, with Governor Stevens and Superintendent Palmer meeting with thousands of Indians from the Yakima, Nez Perce, Cay-use, and Walla Walla tribes. The commissioners initially proposed two reservations, but were met with strong opposition from chiefs like Pe-peu-mox-mox and Young Chief, who spoke of their sacred connection to the earth. The Nez Perce chief, Lawyer, allied himself with Stevens, claiming to have uncovered a Cay-use plot to massacre the whites, a story the Yakimas considered false. After days of tense negotiations and the dramatic arrival of war chief Looking Glass who opposed the treaty, the commissioners offered a third reservation. Despite his opposition, Ka-mi-akin, along with the other chiefs, signed the treaties on June 9 and June 11, 1855, ceding vast territories in exchange for about $650,000 and small reservations.
Direct Causes Of The War Of 1855-1856
Following the Walla Walla council, Ka-mi-akin held a council of chiefs where it was decided to warn white men to stop traveling through their country and to kill them if they refused. In August 1855, Qual-chan, son of Ow-hi, killed six miners at a ford on the Yakima River, spilling the first blood. Not long after, two more white men were killed north of the Ump-tan-um. The event that precipitated the war was the murder of Indian Agent A. J. Bolon near The Dalles on September 20, 185526262626. Bolon, traveling to investigate the earlier murders, was advised by Ka-mi-akin's brother, Ice, to turn back for his own safety, but was pursued and killed by Ice's son, Me-cheil, and his companions. This murder, along with the influence of a Mormon delegate urging war, prompted Major Rains to send troops into the Yakima country.
Hostilities In The Yakima Country
In response to the murder of Agent Bolon, Major Haller led 84 men into the Yakima country in early October 185529292929. On October 5, Ka-mi-akin's warriors engaged Haller's force at Toppenish Creek. The Indians were nearly defeated until reinforcements led by the fierce warrior Qual-chan arrived, forcing Haller into a desperate retreat back to The Dalles. Meanwhile, Qual-chan was dispatched to meet another force under Lieut. Slaughter, who was tricked into retreating over the Nah-cheez pass by a trader named Edgar. In late October, Major G. J. Rains, with over 700 regulars and volunteers, marched into the Yakima country, leading to the Battle of Union Gap on November 9, where the Indians were defeated by the army's superior numbers and howitzer fire, forcing them to retreat across the Columbia.
Further Outbreaks
Following the signal fires from the battle at Toppenish, the Rogue River Indians in Southern Oregon rose up on October 9, 1855, killing numerous settlers. In January 1856, Qual-chan led Yakima warriors over the mountains to aid Chief Leschi in an unsuccessful attack on Seattle. In March, they returned to fight alongside Leschi against Col. Casey's command at Connell's Prairie, a drawn battle that resulted in the Puget Sound Indians retreating to the Yakima Valley. In May 1856, the chief E-ne-as went to Olympia to discuss peace with Governor Stevens, but his offer was rejected. Colonel Wright's subsequent campaign in the summer of 1856 led to a split between Ka-mi-akin, who wanted to continue fighting, and Ow-hi, who desired peace. Ka-mi-akin left for the Palouse country, and Ow-hi agreed to surrender.
Fort Simcoe
Fort Simcoe was established as a military post on August 8, 1856, by order of Colonel George Wright, who selected the site for its strategic location and good resources. Major Robert S. Garnett was tasked with its construction. The fort served as a key military position until it was recommended for abandonment in 1859, with the buildings to be turned over to the Indian Department for an agency. R. H. Lonsdale became the first agent in 1860, followed by the corrupt A. A. Bancroft in 186143434343. In 1864, President Lincoln appointed the Reverend James H. "Father" Wilbur, who served as agent for twenty years, bringing justice and progress to the Indians through education, agriculture, and industry.
Battle Of Satus
On April 8, 1856, Colonel T. R. Cornelius led 241 Oregon Mounted Volunteers across the Columbia and up the Yakima River, camping on Satus Creek. On the morning of April 10, a scouting party including Captain Absolam J. Hembree was ambushed by Indians led by Ka-mi-akin, and Captain Hembree was killed in the first volley. A fierce battle ensued across the rocky hills and canyons. The volunteers fought aggressively, dislodging the estimated 300 Indian warriors from their fortified positions. With Captain Hembree being the only white man killed, the command began their retreat to The Dalles. During the retreat, a Klickitat Indian named Yellow-wash successfully captured and drove off most of the command's horses.
Military Occupancy Of Yakima Country
This chapter describes Colonel Wright's military operations in the Yakima country during the spring and summer of 1856, highlighting the lack of harmony between the regular army and the territorial volunteers. On June 9th, from his camp on the Naches River, Wright held a council with Chiefs Ow-hi and Te-i-as, who expressed a desire for peace, blaming the Walla Walla treaty for the war. Ka-mi-akin remained on the opposite bank of the river and refused to meet with Wright. Wright built a bridge across the Naches, constructed a field fort (Fort Naches), and then marched through the Kittitas and Wenatchee country, concluding that the entire region should be given to the Indians. He located the site for Fort Simcoe in August 185655.
Yakimas Attack Gov. Stevens
In early September, Governor Stevens held another council at Walla Walla, camping separately from Colonel Steptoe's four companies of regulars. Ka-mi-akin, believing Steptoe would not aid the governor, planned an attack. The plan was foiled when Stevens moved his camp next to the regulars upon Steptoe's advice. On September 19th, as Stevens' party began their return march to The Dalles, they were attacked by warriors under Qual-chan and Quil-ten-e-nock. A fierce, day-long battle ensued, during which Qual-chan's forces charged repeatedly and Lo-kout, son of Ow-hi, was severely wounded in a hand-to-hand fight. That night, Steptoe sent soldiers to escort Stevens and his party to safety, foiling Ka-mi-akin's plan to "get Stevens and end the war".
Indian Troubles With Ft. Simcoe
In the spring of 1858, an Indian scout named David (Ki-yu-ya), employed at Fort Simcoe, repeatedly stole horses from the bands of Ow-hi and Quil-ten-e-nock. Outraged by the thefts and the lack of justice, Quil-ten-e-nock went on the warpath alone, attacking a company of miners on the Wen-at-sha River before being killed in the fight. His death prompted his relative Qual-chan to continue the attack. Later, Qual-chan's band confronted So-happy, chief of the Priest Rapids tribe, and killed him when he refused to join their fight. These events, combined with Ka-mi-akin's agitation among the Palouse and Spokane tribes, led directly to Colonel Steptoe's disastrous defeat in May 185866.
The Spokane Campaign
Following Colonel Steptoe's defeat, Colonel Wright marched from The Dalles in August 1858 with a large force to subdue the hostile tribes. He first secured a treaty of alliance with the Nez Perces, who provided scouts for his campaign. On September 1, he engaged the allied Spokane, Coeur d'Alene, and Palouse warriors at the Battle of Four Lakes, decisively defeating them with superior tactics and weaponry. A few days later, he defeated them again in a running battle on the Spokane plains. To completely cripple the tribes, Wright ordered the capture and slaughter of over 800 of their horses. Facing starvation and unable to fight, the chiefs Po-lat-kin and Garry surrendered, and a final treaty was made at the Coeur d'Alene mission on September 1772.
Garnett'S Campaign
On August 8, 1858, Major Robert S. Garnett was ordered from Fort Simcoe to subdue the warlike tribes of the Yakima and Wenatchee. Three days into his march, a detachment led by Lieutenant Jesse K. Allen conducted a night raid on a camp of hostile Indians on the Teanaway River. In the darkness and confusion of the attack, Lieutenant Allen was mortally wounded, likely by friendly fire. Following this, the command captured the band of a chief named Cat-hote, who had taken no part in the war, and confiscated his property. Garnett's forces, led by Lieutenants Crook, McCall, and Turner, then pursued another band of Indians deep into the rugged Wenatchee mountains, capturing women and children and executing four men identified as murderers.
Okanogan Indian Attack
In the spring of 1858, a large party of about 150 miners led by David McLoughlin set out from Walla Walla for the Fraser River gold fields in British Columbia. Near Crab Creek, a Californian who was lagging behind was killed by a war party led by Qual-chan and Moses. The main attack came in the Okanogan country, where Chief In-no-mo-se-cha, seeking revenge for the death of his relative Quil-ten-e-nock, had organized an ambush in a narrow canyon. The miners' scouts discovered the trap, and a fierce, day-long battle ensued. Six miners, including Jesse Rice, were killed at the start, but the rest managed to escape by crossing the Okanogan River at night, eventually reaching the Thompson River.
Passing Of The Great Chiefs
This chapter chronicles the tragic end of the Yakima leadership following the Spokane Campaign of 1858. When Chief Ow-hi learned Colonel Wright had been victorious, he went to Wright's camp to surrender, hoping to save his son, Qual-chan. However, when the unsuspecting Qual-chan arrived at the camp days later, he was immediately seized and hanged. His brother, Lo-kout, narrowly escaped the same fate and fled. A few days later, Ow-hi himself was shot and killed while attempting to escape custody. Ka-mi-akin, refusing to surrender, fled to British Columbia and later to the buffalo country before returning to live at Rock Lake in the Palouse country, where the author met him in 186587. Ka-mi-akin died there about fifteen years later.
The Two Great Men Of The Yakima War
This chapter provides a comparative analysis of the two main figures of the Yakima War of 1855-8: Governor Isaac I. Stevens and Chief Ka-mi-akin. Governor Stevens is described as a strong, forceful, and politically ambitious man who was too hasty and arrogant in his dealings with the Indians, which ultimately led to the war. Ka-mi-akin, in contrast, is portrayed as a great hero and patriot among American Indians, ranking with the best in history. His primary motivation was not personal gain but a love for his people and a desire to protect them and their lands from the destructive influence of white civilization.
Speech Of Lo-Kout
This chapter presents a speech by Lo-kout, the son of Chief Ow-hi, delivered in his old age. In his address, Lo-kout expresses a deep and abiding hatred for the white race, who conquered his people and took their ancestral lands. He recounts his life as a proud warrior, listing the many battles he fought in, from the defeat of Major Haller at Toppenish to the Battle of Little Big Horn where Custer was killed. He proudly displays the scars from seven bullet wounds and a crushed skull he received fighting Governor Stevens' forces at Walla Walla. Lo-kout also confirms that he was "Loolowcan," the guide for Theodore Winthrop, whom he despised for treating him like a dog.
Entering The Promised Land
In September 1860, the author, Andrew Jackson Splawn, at the age of fifteen, left his home in Brownsville, Oregon, to join his older brother, Charles, in the Klickitat Valley. The chapter details his journey through the historic Willamette Valley, crossing the Cascade Mountains via the Barlow route, and his arrival in the frontier town of The Dalles. After witnessing the brutal hanging of an Indian doctor by other Indians, he reached his brother's cabin in a small valley called Moo-sum-pah. There, he befriended a young Klickitat girl named Lal-looh and made his first journey into the Yakima country.
The Beginning Of The Yakima Valley
F. M. Thorp became the first settler in the Yakima Valley, moving his family to the Mok-see (Moxee) valley in February 1861102. Soon after, Alfred Henson and his family became the first white women to see the Kittitas Valley. That summer, the author visited Thorp and helped bring the first wagon into the valley. During a period of high tension with the Indians, the author was saved from a potential attack by the warning of his young Indian friend, Lal-looh. The severe winter of 1861-62 caused immense losses of cattle and Indian ponies. The chapter concludes with the story of the medicine man We-i-pah, who seemingly ended the harsh winter by performing a Chinook dance.
Ferguson County
Ferguson County was created by the legislature on January 21, 1863, but none of its appointed officers qualified, so it was never organized. On January 12, 1865, the act was repealed and Yakima County was created with a reduced size. The first appointed officers included Charles A. Splawn and F. M. Thorp, but the county seat was inconveniently located at Fort Simcoe, so the settlers largely ignored the organization. In 1867, new officers were appointed, and the county seat was moved to Thorp's schoolhouse in Mok-see. The author, deputized by the sheriff, conducted the first property assessment of the county in the spring of 1868112.
The Cowboy Of 1861
In August 1861, at age sixteen, the author was hired by Major John Thorp to help drive cattle 800 miles from the Yakima Valley to the Cariboo mines in British Columbia. Near Wenatchee, the party was nearly massacred by a band of hostile Indians, but was saved by the timely arrival of Chief Moses and the guide Nan-num-kin. After a long and difficult journey, they reached Bonaparte Creek, where deep snow forced them to winter. The author endured a harsh winter with little food, an encounter with the notorious outlaw Boone Helm, and a severe bout of frostbite before Major Thorp returned in the spring of 1862 and they were able to complete the drive.
Back Over The Old Trail
In August 1905, forty-three years after his first journey, the author decided to retrace the old trail from British Columbia back to Yakima. He recounts the dramatic changes he witnessed along the route. Towns like Yale, once bustling heads of navigation, were now quiet stops on the Canadian Pacific Railway. His old campsites at Kamloops, Vernon, and Penticton had become thriving cities with real estate booms. He reflects on a prophecy made by his old companion, Major Thorp, in 1861, who predicted that steamers would one day run on Okanagan Lake and its shores would be cultivated — a vision that had now come true. The journey serves as a powerful reminder of the passage of time and the transformation of the wilderness he once knew.
Discovery Of The Boise Basin Gold Mines
This chapter is the story of the author's brother, Moses Splawn, and his discovery of the Boise Basin gold mines in August 1862123123123. Guided by a Bannock Indian's tale of a basin filled with yellow metal, Moses organized a small party of prospectors, including George Grimes. After a difficult journey that involved building boats to cross the Snake and Boise rivers, they reached the basin. They quickly found gold, confirming the Indian's story. Their discovery was marred by tragedy when they were attacked by Indians, and George Grimes was shot and killed. The surviving members made a hasty retreat, eventually reaching Walla Walla and sparking a gold rush to the newly discovered basin.
Going Home
In January 1863, a deep longing for home prompted the author to leave the Thorp's ranch in the Mok-see valley and begin the arduous journey to his mother in the Willamette Valley. He traveled through deep snow with a band of Satus Indians led by his friend Ken-e-ho. During a stop at their camp, he was reunited with Lal-looh, the Indian princess who had saved his life two years prior; she pleaded with him to join her tribe. He continued his journey alone, enduring extreme cold and hardship before reaching the frontier town of The Dalles. From there, he took a steamer, finally reaching his mother in Corvallis after a three-year absence.
A Side Step Into The Wilderness
In March 1863, the author and his brother William undertook a perilous pack train journey to the gold fields of Canyon City, Oregon, through territory controlled by the hostile Chief Pa-ni-na. For five nights, they were harassed by warriors who attempted to steal their horses, but their constant vigilance prevented any losses. The chapter also recounts another trip to the Cariboo mines in April 1864 with a cargo of bacon belonging to "Long Tom". After a difficult journey marked by troubles with Indians and deep snow in the mountains, the author spent several months working for the packer Oregon Jack before making the long trip home on foot and by steamer.
A Passenger Train To The Basin
In March 1864, the country was "gold-mad," and the author and his brother William organized a "passenger train," guiding thirty men on horseback from The Dalles to the Boise Basin for $100 per head. During the journey through hostile Indian country, their vigilance saved their horses from a large Indian raid that wiped out nine other pack trains at Burnt Ranch. After returning to Umatilla, the author engaged in horse racing against the notorious desperado Matt Bledso. He then began a business packing freight for a trader named Comstock to Rock Island on the Columbia, a venture that included an encounter with Chief Moses, who roughed up one of his Chinese passengers.
A Trip To Boise Basin In 1865
In April 1865, the author was hired by James Barnes to drive 100 head of cattle to the Boise Basin. The journey took them through an uncharted desert east of the Columbia River, where they endured 36 hours without rest after the cattle stampeded back twenty miles in search of water. They eventually found Lewiston and then crossed the treacherous mountains into Idaho. On Camas Prairie, the author was held up by two Nez Perce Indians who had stolen his horse and successfully extorted his last ten dollars from him. After a perilous six-day journey up the Little Salmon River canyon, they finally reached the Payette Valley, only to find there was no market for their cattle.
Robbers On The Trail, 1866
In the fall of 1866, while returning from Orofino, Idaho, with money from a cattle sale, the author found himself pursued by three horsemen he presumed to be robbers. To escape, he spurred his nimble mule, "Jack Rabbit," towards the formidable Lawyer's Canyon. The pursuers split up to cut off his escape route, forcing a desperate move. Reaching a fifty-foot gorge with perpendicular cliffs, he dismounted and led his mule down a treacherous rabbit trail, loosening rocks that echoed from far below. Under the cover of near darkness, they successfully navigated the dangerous descent and the equally perilous climb up the other side, finally reaching the safety of their camp near daybreak.
A Drive Into Montana
In February 1867, the author and Leonard Thorp began a cattle drive to the Blackfoot mines in Montana. They were immediately beset by blizzards and deep snow, forcing them to camp for two months on the Spokane prairie. After finally crossing the Coeur d'Alene mountains via the Mullen road, they reached the Bitter Root valley and the mines, only to find the market flooded with cattle. The chapter details the cutthroat nature of the butchers and the difficulty of collecting payment. The trip was further complicated by the arrival of Major Thorp, who fell ill, and an encounter with a thief named "Dirty Tom," which nearly resulted in a hanging and led to the author being pursued by the law.
To British Columbia Again
In June 1868, the author and Willis Thorp drove a hundred beef cattle toward the mines in British Columbia. Their journey began with a disastrous attempt to cross the Columbia River at Rock Island, where Indians deliberately turned the herd into a whirlpool, though only one animal was lost. They faced constant harassment from Indians who demanded exorbitant fees at every river crossing. After delivering the cattle near the boundary line, the author began the long ride home alone. A series of misfortunes left him without food for four days as he traveled through the desolate country, nearly starving to death before he finally reached a settlement.
On The Kamloops Trail
In 1869, the author and his brother Billy drove a band of horses, including two racers, to Kamloops, B.C.. They successfully raced and won against Chief Smo-hal-la's champion and later against the Shus-shwap tribe's champion, winning horses, money, and even wagers from a colony of Englishmen. After selling their horses, the author was hired by a Mr. Simpson to buy cattle in Yakima. On his return trip with the cattle, he sent his helper, Captain Horton, ahead for supplies, only to find him and an Indian guide drunk in the sagebrush. Near Lake Chelan, he was attacked by a band of Indians and saved from certain death by the timely intervention of his old friend, In-no-mo-se-cha Bill.
A Fishing Trip
In the summer of 1869, the author hired an old Indian named Mowit to guide him on a fishing trip to I-i-yas (Fish Lake) at the head of the Cle Elum River. During the trip, Mowit shared several stories and legends. He told the author about the "Stick Indians," a mythical race of small people living high in the Cascade mountains. He also recounted his own life story as a great hunter and his tragic love for a maiden named Wa-ke-ta. Mowit shared the legend of Speel-yi's (Coyote's) prodigal son, who was turned into a stone pillar as a warning to evildoers, and the story of the great water serpent of Wap-tus Lake.
First Settlers
This chapter documents the arrival of the first settlers in the Yakima Valley and surrounding areas. The first to arrive were French squaw men in 1863172. They were followed by William Parker, who settled Parker Bottom in 1864, and Andrew Gervais, the first settler on the Ahtanum in 1864173173. Alfred Henson was the first in Selah valley in 1865, and Augustan Cleman was the first in the Wenas in 1867, bringing the first sheep to the valley. John W. Goodwin settled the Cowiche in 1867175. The chapter also lists the establishment of the first general store in 1867, the re-establishment of the Catholic Mission on the Ahtanum in 1867, and the building of the first irrigation ditch by white men in 1871 by the Schanno brothers for the new Yakima City.
The Cattle Industry
This chapter traces the history of the cattle industry in the Northwest. The first cattle arrived in Oregon from California in 1836, driven by the Willamette Valley Cattle Company. Chief Ka-mi-akin brought the first herd to the Yakima Valley from Fort Vancouver around 1840178. The industry grew as Indians traded horses for cattle, and white settlers began driving herds in for grazing in 1860, with F. M. Thorp being the first. For years, the mines in Cariboo, British Columbia, provided the primary market. The devastating winter of 1880-81 killed at least 50 percent of the cattle in the region, causing prices to revive and shifting the market focus to Portland and Puget Sound.
The Cowboy
This chapter pays tribute to the cowboy of the open range, describing his life as a mix of romance, hardship, and peril. The author portrays the cowboy as a brave, dependable, and indispensable figure in the settlement of the West, working long hours for small wages. The narrative covers the spring roundup, branding, and the long drives to market. It includes several anecdotes illustrating the cowboy's character, such as the tragic death of a young boy named Roarick and the story of "Silent Sam" Hunter's search for his lost love. The chapter concludes with the author's first shipment of cattle by rail in 1881, which he saw as the beginning of the end for the cowboy's way of life.
The Last Drive
The author recounts his final, grueling cattle drive in November 1896, which convinced him to quit the trail for good. The drive from the Okanogan Valley to Wenatchee was beset by an old-fashioned blizzard, with snow two feet deep and temperatures plummeting to thirty-six degrees below zero. The narrative details the intense suffering of both the men and the cattle, the desperate search for feed, and the near-death of one of the cowboys, Tennessee John, from the extreme cold. After a perilous passage around an icy cliff, they finally reached Wenatchee, where the author announced to his crew that he was quitting the trail, seeing the cowboy's era coming to an end.
The Founding Of Ellensburg
In 1870, the author and Ben Burch established a trading post in the Kittitas Valley, which was humorously christened "Robber's Roost" by a friend, John Gillispie. The store primarily catered to the Indian trade, and the author built a half-mile racetrack nearby to attract customers for horse racing and gambling. The chapter recounts several amusing anecdotes from this period, including a farcical wedding ceremony performed by Justice Fred Bennett and a comical courtroom scene involving two feuding Irishmen, Pat Lynch and Windy Johnson. In 1872, the author sold his store and his squatter's right to the 160 acres of land to John A. Shoudy, who then platted the townsite and named it Ellensburg after his wife.
The Perkins Murder
This chapter details the murder of Mr. and Mrs. Lorenzo Perkins on July 9, 1878, by a band of renegade Indians fleeing the Bannock and Piute War. The settlers in the Yakima Valley built forts for protection, fearing a general uprising. Suspicion initially fell upon Chief Moses, who denied involvement and offered to help capture the outlaws. After the bodies were found at Rattlesnake Springs, John M. Edwards identified the murderers at White Bluffs. A posse of volunteers and Indian police, led by Captain William L. Splawn, pursued the killers. After a confrontation with Chief Moses, the posse eventually captured or killed all the murderers involved, a process that took nearly two years and involved multiple jailbreaks.
Reminiscences Of 1880-1
The author recalls the catastrophic winter of 1880-81, one of the most severe on record, which devastated the livestock industry across the Northwest. The entire country was covered in a crust of ice over the snow, making it impossible for cattle and horses to graze. He describes the horrifying sight of thousands of dead cattle piled up along the Columbia and Yakima rivers. The author personally lost his entire herd of a hundred cattle in a massive ice jam on the Yakima River, a financial blow that forced him to "start all over again". The Indians suffered equally, with their ponies dying in their tracks and their medicine men failing to bring the Chinook wind.
Earthquake Of 1872
In the late fall of 1872, a significant earthquake struck the region. The author was in Yakima City at the Sagebrush Saloon when the shaking began around 10 o'clock at night, causing widespread panic as residents fled their homes. While there was no significant damage in the Yakima Valley itself, the quake caused major landslides in the Tieton Basin. The most dramatic effect was near the mouth of the Entiat River, where a large portion of a mountain slid into the Columbia River, creating the Entiat Rapids and nearly damming the river. An old Indian witnessed by the author attributed the event to the anger of the Great Spirit over the wicked ways of the white man.
A Great Indian Agent – James H. Wilbur
This chapter is a tribute to Reverend James H. Wilbur, known as "Father Wilbur," who served as the Indian agent at Fort Simcoe for nearly twenty years, starting in 1864211211. Wilbur, a pioneer Methodist minister who arrived in Oregon in 1847, is portrayed as a physically powerful, deeply religious, and honorable man who worked tirelessly for the betterment of the Indians. Though sometimes autocratic, his fairness and genuine concern for his charges won him their respect. The chapter recounts his successful effort to have the reservation's spiritual welfare allotted to the Methodist church by President Grant and tells several anecdotes that illustrate his strong character and unwavering principles.
Chief Moses As I Knew Him
The author provides a personal account of Chief Moses, whom he first met in 1861 and considered a friend for thirty-five years. He describes Moses as a great sportsman, an intelligent diplomat, and a leader who had remarkable control over his people. The author credits Moses with preventing a widespread Indian war in the region during the 1877 Nez Perce uprising by keeping his and other tribes from joining Chief Joseph. Despite his flaws, including a fondness for liquor, Moses is portrayed as a powerful and impressive figure, the "Bismarck of the redmen of the Northwest," whose foresight saved the settlers from attack.
Shu-Lu-Skin'S Story
This chapter recounts the story of Shu-lu-skin, a descendant of the great Chief We-ow-wicht and a friend of the author for fifty years. As a young man, Shu-lu-skin guided two white men — likely part of Stevens' survey — to the summit of Ta-ho-mah (Mt. Rainier), a place no Indian had dared to climb due to tribal tradition. The chapter details his character as a great sportsman and a brave warrior who once stood up to Chief Moses. It also tells of his legendary appetite, his decision to abandon his old, disagreeable wife for a beautiful young princess named Wi-yi-too-yi, and his steadfast friendship with the author.
Early Indian Religions
This chapter explores the "dreamer religion" practiced by many tribes in eastern Washington, which originated with So-wap-so, a chief of the Priest Rapids (Wi-nah-pams) Indians. It details the rise of his successor, Smo-hal-la, who greatly expanded the cult's influence after he was presumed killed by Chief Moses, journeyed through Mexico and the Southwest, and returned claiming to have come from the spirit land. The doctrine opposed civilization, forbidding work and farming. The chapter also describes the similar beliefs of Ko-ti-ah-an and provides a detailed account of the ceremonial Salmon Dance, a major religious observance that celebrated the spring salmon run.
The Catholic Missionaries
This chapter chronicles the history of the Catholic missionaries among the Yakimas, beginning in 1847 with the arrival of Oblate fathers Paschal Ricard and E. C. Chirouse at the request of Chief Ka-mi-akin. They established the St. Rose and St. Joseph missions, but the latter was burned by volunteers during the war of 1855, who suspected the priests of aiding the Indians. The mission on the Ahtanum was re-established in 1867 by Father Napoleon St. Onge. The chapter pays tribute to the tireless work of Jesuit fathers like Caruana, Raiberti, and Grassi, who dedicated their lives to the spiritual welfare of the tribes despite immense hardship and the eventual decline of their influence as the Indians' way of life vanished.
The Indian'S First Horse
The author explains that the Northwest tribes, including the Yakimas, first obtained horses around 1750 from the Sho-sho-ne (Snake) tribes to the southeast. The ultimate origin of these horses traces back to the Spanish, who introduced them to Mexico in 1519232. The chapter details the story of Chief Pe-peu-mox-mox of the Walla Wallas, who in 1844 traveled to Sutter's Fort in California to trade for horses and cattle. The trip ended in tragedy when his educated son, Elijah Hedding, was murdered by an American named Grove Cook. This event led Pe-peu-mox-mox to wage retaliatory raids, bringing thousands of horses back to the Columbia Basin and firmly establishing the horse culture among the tribes.
The Pack Train
This chapter describes the vital role of the pack train in the early West, calling it the "pioneer means of transportation" for three hundred years. The author recalls the well-equipped trains he saw on the Cariboo trail in 1861, run by famous packers like Hank and Yank and Jack Long. He details the components of a pack train, from the Spanish aparejo (packsaddle) to the roles of the cargadero (boss) and the arrieros (packers). The chapter emphasizes the skill required, especially the art of throwing the "diamond hitch," and pays homage to the hardy men and their indispensable cayuse ponies who made commerce and settlement possible in the rugged wilderness.
The Gold Hunters
This chapter recounts the history of gold discoveries that spurred the development of the Northwest. The first discovery was made in 1845 by the "lost emigrants" on the Malheur River in Oregon. The major rush began in 1858 with the discovery of gold on the Thompson and Fraser rivers in British Columbia, which drew thirty thousand miners from California alone. After initial troubles with the Indians, prospectors pushed further into the mountains, eventually discovering the exceptionally rich Cariboo district, particularly Williams Creek, in 1861242. The author pays tribute to the hardy and hopeful prospectors, whose relentless search for gold built cities and opened the country.
First Wagons
This chapter recounts the arrival of the first wagons in the region. In 1840, mountain men including Robert Newell and Jo Meek brought the first wagons across the plains from Fort Hall to the Whitman mission, finally reaching the Willamette Valley. The first wagons to pass through the Yakima Valley belonged to an emigrant party led by James Longmire in 1853245. This group of 155 people and 36 wagons decided to leave the Oregon Trail and forge a new route to Puget Sound via the Naches Pass. The chapter details their arduous journey up the Yakima River and across the Cascade Mountains, a feat Lieutenant George B. McClellan had deemed impossible just weeks earlier.
First Wagon Train From Priest Rapids On Columbia River To Fort Kamloops On The Thompson River, British Columbia
This chapter describes the pioneering journey of General Joel Palmer in 1858, who established a new wagon route to the British Columbia interior. Palmer shipped his cargo of miners' supplies via the steamer Colonel Wright to Priest Rapids, the head of navigation on the Columbia River. From there, he used ox-drawn wagons, following a broad Indian trail for much of the way. The journey required difficult portages, including ferrying the wagons around Saddle Mountain in canoes and building a grade up a bluff. His route took him through Moses Coulee and up the Okanogan Valley, eventually reaching Fort Kamloops where he sold his cargo at a large profit.
Old Oregon Pioneers
In this chapter, the author pays a heartfelt tribute to the pioneers who crossed the plains, especially the great emigration of 1852 to which his own family belonged. He describes the immense suffering and tragedy of the journey, marked by Indian massacres, a devastating cholera epidemic that killed thousands, starvation, and the loss of property. He recounts the story of Naomi Hays and Ann Yantis, two pioneer women who died and were buried side-by-side on the desolate banks of the Snake River. The author praises the heroic self-sacrifice, courage, and endurance of these men and women, declaring that the Old West they created is gone, but their legacy remains.
Characteristics Of The Inland Native
The author provides a detailed description of the inland native tribes of the Columbian group, focusing on the Salish and Shahaptan peoples as he knew them over fifty years ago. He briefly outlines the territories and traits of various tribes, including the Colvilles, Spokanes, Coeur d'Alenes, Okanogans, Palouse, and Klickitats. The name "Yakima," he explains, originated as a Salish nickname, "E-Yakimas" (big bellies), for the Pisch-wan-wap-pams tribe. The chapter covers their systems of government and warfare, temperament, marriage customs, food preparation, treatment of the sick, and arts such as basketry.
Indian Folklore
This chapter presents several myths and legends of the Northwest Indians, which were handed down orally. The central figure in many stories is Speel-yi (Coyote), the greatest god of the tribes. The legend of Wish-poosh, the giant beaver, explains the creation of the Yakima River, Union Gap, and the Cascade falls through a titanic battle between Speel-yi and the monster. Other tales include the origin of the Chinook winds, the tragic story of the beautiful maiden I-yap-pe-ah, which resembles a Trojan War saga, the tradition of the elusive "Stick Indians," and the mystery of the ancient Painted Rocks on the Naches River.
Early References
This chapter serves as an almanac of "firsts" in the history of the old Oregon country. It begins with the discovery of the Columbia River by Captain Robert Gray in 1792 and the overland expedition of Lewis and Clark in 1805. The list includes the first white woman to see the Columbia (Jane Barnes), the first fur trading posts (established by David Thompson in 1808-1809), the first grist mill (1830), the first missions (Jason Lee's in 1834), and the first cattle brought from California (1836). It also records the first wagons to pass through the Yakima Valley (James Longmire's party in 1853) and the first steamers to navigate the various sections of the Columbia River.